The value of the lacquer coating and basic preparation. Lacquering of wooden surfaces makes it possible to distinguish the features of specific species and the natural warmth inherent in wood. On the one hand, this treatment gives additional decorativeness and surface protection. However, also certain types of varnishes close the natural pores of the wood, preventing the release of natural phytoncides, aromas and other substances.
Wood lacquering: The preparatory process involves several steps. And the first among them - leveling the surface. For different products, this can be a finish using planing with a plane, a jointer, or a cycle. The use of advanced power tools can greatly reduce the loss of time and effort at this stage of work. If suddenly during the work there are damaged zones and knots, they are removed with a chisel and mallet (wooden hammer). The selected surface is carefully polished with sandpaper of different grain sizes, gradually replace the coarse-grained abrasives with fine-grained. A prerequisite for the further processing of wood varnish gave a good result - grinding occurs in the direction along its fibers. Having achieved a smooth, smooth, clean and silky surface with a uniform gloss, the primary (rough) grinding is completed.
The final preparation of the tree for varnishing. When the primary sanding is finished, a small amount of the solution is diluted with water and wood glue, the wooden surface is moistened with this solution with the help of a foam sponge. After drying for 3 hours, fine sanding of the sandpaper from the surface of the pile is done with fine-grained sandpaper. This work can be done up to three times, depending on the hardness of the wood material. When the finishing sanding is completely finished, the surface should be thoroughly dedusted, so that not even small dust particles remain. It should be borne in mind that wood varnish coating will reveal all the deficiencies and negligence admitted during the preparation. In particular, this dust will be noticeable on the lacquer surface in the form of irregularities and bumps, spoiling the appearance of the material. To eliminate these flaws in the future will be more difficult and more expensive.
Lacquering wood: Speaking of preparatory processes, it is impossible not to mention the toning or coloring of wood for lacquering. It can be carried out in the presence of desire and can give extra decorativeness to the material, the illusion of expensive breeds, etc. If you are going to tint softwood, it must be resin-free. To do this, using a tampon surface is wiped with gasoline, acetone or soda solution. For toning under ebony, pear, maple or birch wood is optimally suited. Under the nut is well tinted plum, aspen, pine. And tinted under mahogany is best beech, walnut or linden. When working on toning, it is necessary to take into account that the toner heated to 50 C optimally goes deeper into the wood structure. Upon completion of toning, the material is thoroughly dried at a temperature of up to 20 ◦C. To dry the material should strictly natural way. The dried product is carefully wiped with cloth (lightly polished).
Varnishing - features and practical advice. There are a lot of recommendations how to apply varnish on wood material. This is best done after the final priming and puttying the surface. These procedures are required in order to remove pores and microcracks from the wood surface. This preparation will significantly reduce the cost of varnish and improve the quality of the surface. The priming process is able to be carried out using paraffins, rosins or beeswax, diluted in turpentine, alcohol or refined gasoline. Overlay primer is carried out using a stiff brush with a small pile. Further, the composition is thoroughly rubbed with cloth. Drying is the same method and with the same reservations as with the previously described tinting. In case the surface required the application of putty, it is thoroughly dried and polished using the methods given above.
Applying varnish on wood: Painting wood varnish is made with a cotton swab wrapped in gauze or linen fabric. Similar tampons will need a few, respectively, they will need to roll in advance. The varnish is poured into a tampon or “charged” into it from below. The movements of the tampon during varnishing must go along the fibers, closing the edges of the early strokes. Varnish must be gently rubbed, there should not be any smudges on the surface. Flooring from wood varnish is not carried out quickly. The application of the first layer ends with its drying (approximately one hour). Next, sanding is performed with fine grain sandpaper, followed by polishing with sand cloth and careful removal of dust. For the second layer will need a new tampon. If necessary, after drying is completed, polishing and cleaning with a cloth rag. An indispensable, final stage - wood coating with lacquer finishing layer. During the final drying, it is necessary to completely eliminate the movement of air and the introduction of dust; to do this, shut the windows and doors for the whole period.
