How is the installation of lighting in drywall

Large and heavy chandelier creates a significant load on the ceiling.

In order for any lamp to serve for a long time and please the eye with its appearance, first of all, it must be securely installed on a solid base. But what if the ceiling of you is hemmed with drywall, because it is well known that this material is quite fragile.

Installation of lighting in drywall is, in fact, very simple, the main thing is to know the structure of the structure and in advance, during installation, take care of strengthening the base. Today we will reveal all the subtleties of working with this material. So let's go!

General information about plasterboard ceilings

Let's start with the fact that we will deal with how the ceiling is arranged, having learned its features. All this will allow us to correctly perform the installation of any lighting fixtures.

Structure

Gypsum ceiling assembled by half

Plasterboard constructions belong to frame, which, in turn, can be of two types:

1. Suspended - those that are separated from the capital overlap at some distance, and the whole structure is held with the help of various suspensions (straight, spring);
2. Hemming - profiles are nailed straight to the base to minimize the height loss of the room. It can be realized only in a room with flat ceilings, so this type is extremely rare.

Let's look at the first option.

What features it has:

• First , you can lower the surface of the plasterboard to a low enough level to build in spotlights.
• Secondly , you can openly lay wires openly, under any number of lighting devices - in this regard, the task is greatly facilitated, since it is not necessary to perform dusty works on the shaving of the floor, which can affect its strength.

The frame of the gypsum ceiling consists of metal profiles that form a grid with cells of a certain size. The most commonly used variants are 120x50 cm (such frames are assembled from the powerful Knauf profile), 60x60 cm, 40x40 cm.

• Someone manages to mount without any jumpers, as in the photo above, which is a direct violation of technology.
• The size of the cells directly depends on how we will place the lamps in space. A simple example - point lighting devices can be installed only in free spaces, so as not to rest against the profile. In some situations it can be cut, but this can reduce the strength of the whole structure.

Room lighting project

Room with normal and decorative lighting

So, the first thing developed lighting scheme. Our site contains a lot of material, with instructions on how to correctly calculate the number of lamps and their power for different rooms.

Also recently released material about decorative lighting. We advise you to additionally get acquainted if you seriously intend to install lighting devices at home from scratch.

• Having decided on the number and type of fixtures, make a project of your future ceiling. Here we are important to the size of individual parts and levels of design, if any. If you are planning a regular single-level flat ceiling, then write down the dimensions of the room and scale them on paper.
• Then mark the desired location of the fixtures in the drawing, precisely observing the proportions, that is, you should already know exactly what kind of fixtures will be: overhead, recessed, or you limit yourself to the chandelier alone. The size of these devices is also important, especially when it comes to integration.
• Further in the drawing indicate the location of the ceiling profile, according to the chosen installation technology.
• Check whether there are places where the profiles will interfere with the installation of the lamp. If there are conflicts, either change the position of the electrical device or partially move the interfering profiles.

In general, in order not to wrestle with how to correct errors, immediately develop an exact framework assembly plan. After you can proceed directly to work.

The process of assembling the frame of the metal profile

Install guides and main profiles - this will allow you to better navigate when wiring, although, if your calculations are correct, you can pre-dissolve the wires, leaving some margin on the luminaires, it will be much easier.

Electrical PVC Corrugation

Next, lay the wiring, which must be hidden in a plastic or metal corrugation (the latter is used when laying on combustible bases). If you are attached to a reinforced concrete floor, the cable can be mounted without additional insulation.

Metal corrugation prevents wooden structures from igniting during a short circuit

Attention! In no case do not bind the electrical lines with a metal frame - this is prohibited at the level of the BCH 28-95, as it is fraught with electric shock.

Further actions will be described in the discussion of instructions for the installation of different fixtures.

Installation of lighting

We turn directly to the topic of our article, namely installation, and we will begin with something simpler.

Overhead lights

As can be seen from our photo selection, the range of these lighting devices is very large - from those that are very small, and are used as additional lighting (including decorative), to massive options that can flood large areas. Therefore, the first thing you should pay attention to is the weight of the purchased product.

Again, these data, along with the dimensions you should have already at the stage of assembly of the ceiling.

• I will warn our reader of the idea to turn something straight to the drywall. The exception may be the lightest products that can be mounted using dowels, butterflies.

Dowel butterfly

• The design of this fastener is such that it unfolds like an umbrella on the back of the cardboard, providing a secure connection without the risk of crumbling of the material.
• But it’s still better to have a metal profile behind you, which can be screwed onto the most common screws. Such a connection will be more reliable, so consider the location of profiles that will serve as mortgages.
• For heavier models weighing from one to several kilograms, no “butterflies” will help anymore - you cannot do without embedded parts. Examine the fixing system of the lamp, finding out the distance between the mounting holes. According to the data obtained, supplement the frame with the necessary jumpers, which for extremely heavy devices are rigidly attached to the overlap on the suspensions.

However, the strength of thin metal can sometimes not be enough - we are talking about the most massive giants, whose weight can reach tens of kilograms.

In this case, you can do in two ways:

1. To reinforce the metal frame with a wooden bar , that is, everything remains as it is, but in those profiles to which we plan to knit, we insert a thick bar on top, which we fix from the sides with screws. Then when installing the chandelier we use long, galvanized screws on the tree. The design is also further strengthened with several hangers.
2. The second method is more suitable for frameworks with large cells - we install a separate assembly site from a piece of thick plywood or purchase a finished metal product in a store. It is rigidly attached regardless of the rest of the frame, but always with him in the level.

In the site must be made a hole for the passage of wires

Chandelier installation

In fact, we have already painted everything, however, there are some differences. Modern chandeliers are equipped with different mounting systems, most of which can be installed on the already described technology. These include models on the slats, crosses and I-beams. The question arises when our chandelier should be mounted on a hook

So, how do we fix the chandelier on the plasterboard ceiling? There are two ways to solve this problem:

• The first - after the ceiling is mounted, we calculate the place of attachment of our massive lamp. We will fasten directly to the concrete floor, so no mortgages will be necessary for us, moreover, they can interfere with the installation, so take care of their absence in advance.

• For the attachment, we need the hook itself, which we need to choose, focusing on the distance from the overlap to the drywall surface. You can calculate this parameter even before mounting the entire structure (the hook with the platform is installed before the binder), or you can pick it up along the way, but be prepared that the necessary fastener may not be in the store.
• So, we find the fixing point of the luminaire - if it is the center, then the easiest way is to pull the threads along the diagonals, if not, then we do the calculation on the roulette, according to the project.
• Next we take a 32 mm or a small crown feather drill for a tree and drill a hole with a diameter into which the hook ring will freely pass, but which will be closed with a decorative chandelier bowl without any problems. If necessary, the hole can be slightly expanded with a stationery knife.

• We take a perforator, install a drill of the appropriate length and diameter into it and drill a hole in the base. If you are afraid of damaging drywall while drilling, you can make an improvised guide and limiter from a piece of polypropylene pipe.

8x460 drill with a pobedit tip - do not overdo it so as not to drill the floor to the neighbors from above

• Then everything is simple - we insert a hook with a dowel into the hole, which is also selected in length, and screw it up to the desired level.

Mounted chandelier on the hook

After pulling the wires, connect the lamp through the contact pad, usually going in the kit. Excess wires are pushed back into the supra-ceiling space, lift the bowl to the desired level and fix it on the side with a screw.

Installation is complete. As you can see, this solution is very reliable, but it can not always be used, and the main obstacle is the distance from the ceiling to the false ceiling. If it is very large, you can use the following method.

Mounted assembly site

• We install a little above the level of the frame (4-6 cm) just such a plywood platform that we fasten to the ceiling on hangers, profiles or cables.
• At the point of installation of the lamp we drill a hole for the spring dowel, which is shown in the following photo.

Dowel spring mounting - "umbrella"

• The dimensions of the dowel hole are shown in the following table.

We are interested in the drilling diameter, although a column with maximum loads will be useful.

• Next, hem ceiling. Naturally, the point of the location of the hole we need, we must extort beforehand. Again, using the drill of the desired diameter (under the hook), we make a hole in the drywall.
• Then push the dowel spring part inside. The following picture shows in detail the principle of this attachment.

Installing the dowel spring

• Needless to say that the "umbrella" must be pushed into the plywood, and not hung on drywall. As soon as the element opens, we give it a slight tension down and adjust the height of our hook.
• Tighten the lower nut for better fixation.

Further actions are no different from those already described.

Mounting fixtures

Perhaps the easiest to install is built-in spot lighting. It does not require you to install additional mortgages or drill into reinforced concrete floors. The weight of such lamps is small and distributed over a larger area than the overhead.

The clamps are steel wire springs. This mounting allows you to install and remove instruments in seconds.

Installation is as follows:

Plasterboard surface cutting

• Making sure that you do not fall on the profile of the frame, with the help of various crowns, files, and nozzles of incisors, we make a hole of the required diameter in drywall;

Tip! These values ​​are contained in the installation instructions for the luminaire itself, in its own box.

The lamp is completely ready for installation.

• We collect the lamp - put the lamp and fix it with a spring ring (depending on the type of device);
• Pull the wires out and through the connectors or twist (today this method is used less and less) we connect the base with it, which comes bundled with the device;

Tip! Be sure to disconnect the wires so as not to get an electric shock.

• We are convinced that the insulation of the current-carrying conductors is of high quality, and we connect the lamp;
• Bend the springs up and insert the lamp into the hole, simultaneously pushing back the wire.

Everything! The lamp is ready for operation. If you need to dismantle just pick it gently with a knife and pull down, just hold the springs, as they can hurt the fingers.

Installed fixtures ready for operation

LED strip mounting

Finally, let's talk a little more about decorative lighting, namely, about LED strips.

A room with such lighting will look different.

To install such a solution, we will not need to drill the surface - usually the tape is hidden either in a specially prepared cornice or behind ceiling baguettes.

The tape is hidden behind the speaker box

We will not discuss how such eaves (boxes) are constructed, of course, since this does not apply to the topic of our article. We are interested in the method of installation and connection.

Different pinout LEDs on the meter tape

The main feature of LEDs is that they emit a lot of heat in the opposite direction relative to the propagation of light. In other words, the mounting platform, base, and tape (depending on the structure in question) are very hot.

Increased temperature is the first thing that adversely affects the service life of the LEDs themselves, so if you mount a sufficiently powerful tape, for example, 120 or 240 per linear meter, it needs to organize a high-quality heat sink.

Mounting aluminum profile

• For these purposes, use aluminum profiles, which are of different configurations and sizes. For example, the one shown in the photo above is designed for in-plane installation and is additionally equipped with a light diffuser made of plastic.
• For flush mounting you need a U-shaped version, which is attached to the walls or drywall on screws or dowels-screws.
• To close the tape with a lens means to get a uniform glow of the entire line. This is especially important if you do not want to see the LEDs reflected in the glossy ceiling.
• If there is no desire to spend money on profiles, then when assembling the ceiling box, install a PNP profile 27x28 into it as the base for the rim, and glue the tape to it. Steel does not have such thermal conductivity as aluminum, but it will be quite enough. For the scattering effect, you can direct the tape not into the ceiling, but towards the inner wall. To understand this construction, take a look at the picture below.

The LED tape is fixed on the profile and facing the inside of the structure, while the PNP profile serves as a heat sink

Turning this trick while mounting to the main walls, as you understand, will not work, so either buy a profile, or limit yourself with a tape of lower power.

So, for the installation, we need:

LED tape

The tape itself. There are two main varieties - monochrome and RGB (color). The first constantly shine with one color, and the second are able to change the shade, according to your preferences and programmed (their price is higher, but the capacity of such an installation is many times greater).

Rgb controller

If you want a colorful backlighting, then you can not do without a controller. It is he who sets the modes of operation and remembers the program for changing colors, in general, controls the lighting. With such a device, you can find a non-standard shade and store it in memory, calling in the future at the touch of a button. The controller is additionally equipped with a remote control.

The power supply is a DC transformer

LEDs cannot operate on AC, so they need a converter. In addition, they require low voltage (12V, less often - 24V). The model of the power supply and its power is chosen in proportion to the load that will be created by the entire network of tapes connected to it.

Attention! The power supply needs revisions and cooling, so do not sew it inside the ceiling. It is best to equip the place of installation of the ventilation grille for air circulation, or else take it out of the structure to a specially prepared place.

Well, and, of course, a heat sink profile, if required.

Mounting tape

And now, let's install and run this miracle of electrical engineering with our own hands:

• On each LED strip, cut points are indicated - if necessary, shorten the tape. Do not try to cut in other places, as the device will not work.

The incision site is indicated on the tape by the corresponding scissor mark.

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